Fuel tank and delivery

Update

Update - Never say die.

I had been reading up on the use of Citric acid as a rust remover and after some success with a few other parts I thought I’d try with this tank. I poured in about 2 gal mixed with about 1 cup of citric acid powder. I also tossed in a large handful of roofing nails (best) and some other parts (not a great idea) to scrape the tank when agitated, hopefully helping to remove any rust. This physical abrasion/disturbance of the surface proved to be necessary. After some experimentation, I was able to get a pretty decent result and I am able to reuse the fuel tank.

Getting started

I was thrilled to be able to remove the fuel tank with ease, and was hopeful that the surface rust on the exterior could be addressed and the tank reused - a few bucks saved. When drained of the last of its 2-3 gal of very old fuel the extensive internal rust and gunk became evident. the level sender was removed and found to be rusted and seized…. A new tank might be a good investment.

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Front frame repair

Heavy metal stories... As mentioned in a previous post the front frame was in worse shape than I'd imagined. You can see in the photos below and elsewhere the bent frame rail and steering rack mounting beam, plus the really bad work on the front chassis horns. The painful kink in the frame rail. Fortunately, a few very kind folks took the time to explain to me how to approach this sort of a frame repair. So, I bought a "portapower" on sale, and a frame clamp and followed the Eugene's directions. And slowly, carefully, was able to pull the frame mostly straight. Amazing! A great first step. I also used a large C clamp to bring the box section back into square as it had been moved into a parallelogram shape at the site of the bend. As detailed in another post, I was able to salvage he front half of a parts car. Thanks for your generosity Ken! From this I cut some repair pieces required for Miguela. So far, the steering rack x-member and a section of frame. Re

Front End Fact Find

June 15 - confirmed that the chassis is not bent! Plumb bob and chalk lines. See section R page 18 of the Bentley manual for dimensions and method. Update June 12 - more photos of frame Update - Obvious accident damage and clearly the frame horns are not as they should be. Measurement and verification required. The photo below is rather telling. The horns should be 12” apart (11” between the flanges), parallel to the car’s centreline and level and straight with respect to its the frame rail. I am not certain precisely how far each horn should extend from the crossmember. I will assume but should verify that the rad uprights are at 90deg to the horn, and should verify the height of the rad support above the horn. the threaded bosses for the grill shroud (2 in each horn, 3 in each rad upright) are the most critical location points with respect to hood alignment, as these locate the front end assembly. Straight edge clamped to frame rail. Left side horn is straight. Right side ho

Engine bay dissasembly - reference photos

Firewall area

1968 MG Midget

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