Skip to main content

Parts required


(That was the fun-fur that had been used to replace the carpet.)


This page exists to keep a running list of parts required.

Replace non with original 


New/Used Parts required

  • Rad hoses.
  • Heater hoses (if heat used)
  • both bumper support brackets inside boot.
  • Boot seal
  • Door seals
  • Engine mounts 
  • Oil filter and head pipe 
  • Input shaft nose bushing
  • Ring gear 
  • Plastic dip stick tube 
  • Top
  • One lift off fastener for rear edge of cockpit
  • Small black trim screws for interior panels
  • Male snaps for dome fasteners 
  • One seat-back lever and square drive for passenger seat (if current seats are to be used)
  • Seals for all windows 
  • Bumper/valence seals 
  • Gas cap. - got one 
  • Fuel tank. (Moss 471-231. $199US). - got one 
  • Fuel level sender (Moss 
  • fuel filter
  • Rubber seals (3) relating to fuel filler neck.
  • Hair dryer style heater fan
  • Connecting hoses for same
  • One demister hose (replace both)
  • Exhaust
  • Right hand side of cowl  for steering column 


  • Steering wheel 
  • Rear suspension bushings and check straps 
  • Dual circuit master cylinder for brakes.
  • Brake parts 
  • Dash pad
  • Carpet set
  • one red tailight lens, upper half
  • reverse light lenses and gaskets.
  • Gasket for mirror. 
  • Clutch slave flex hose 
Exhaust manifold.
Vacuum line to distributor 


Left  side rear quarter repair panel 
Left side outer sill 



Accessories

  • Tonneau cover
  • Luggage rack
  • Sway bar
Front spring dimensions 


https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Tires-and-Wheels/HWT/AM20270.html


Seats as received






 

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Front End Fact Find

June 15 - confirmed that the chassis is not bent!  Plumb bob and chalk lines. See section R page 18 of the Bentley manual for dimensions and method.   Update June 12 - more photos of frame  Update -  Obvious accident damage and clearly the frame horns are not as they should be.  Measurement and verification required.  The photo below is rather telling. The horns should be 12” apart (11” between the flanges), parallel to the car’s centreline and level and straight with respect to its the frame rail.  I am not certain precisely how far each  horn should extend from the crossmember. I will assume but should verify that the rad uprights are at 90deg to the horn, and should verify the height of the rad support above the horn. the threaded bosses for the grill shroud (2 in each horn, 3 in each rad upright) are the most critical location points with respect to hood alignment, as these locate the front end assembly. Straight edge clamped to frame rai...

Front frame repair

Heavy metal stories... As mentioned in a previous post the front frame was in worse shape than I'd imagined. You can see in the photos below and elsewhere the bent frame rail and steering rack mounting beam, plus the really bad work on the front chassis horns.    The painful kink in the frame rail. Fortunately, a few very kind folks took the time to explain to me how to approach this sort of a frame repair. So, I bought a "portapower" on sale, and a frame clamp and followed the Eugene's directions. And slowly, carefully, was able to pull the frame mostly straight.   Amazing! A great first step. I also used a large C clamp to bring the box section back into square as it had been moved into a parallelogram shape at the site of the bend. As detailed in another post, I was able to salvage he front half of a parts car. Thanks for your generosity Ken!  From this I cut some repair pieces required for Miguela. So far, the steering rack x-member and a section of frame...

Engine teardown and reassembly

 Miguela's seized engine could not be freed in situ.   After weeks of soaking, rolling etc I could not get it to budge and resigned myself to the teardown I had suspected was inevitable.  The odometer reads 49000 miles.  The "12CD" series engine is original to the car, and it does not appear to have been opened in the past, though it does have a copper-faced head gasket which may not be original. Some of the photos also show the light green paint colour that is particular to this series of engines.   They are rare and particularly fast as a result.  Ease of access is facilitated by the absence of any front end sheet metal.  After more hardened mud and grease were removed, the starter, generator, induction and cylinder head were removed.  The engine and gearbox were then unbolted and removed.   While lifting the engine alone was possible with a helper, an engine hoist will be required for reassembly as the gearbox and engine will be ...